Tl;dr – By sheer luck, I got a last-minute table at Bar Bacetto in Waitsburg, WA, a restaurant with a few months long waitlist. Here’s my review.
It was during a casual conversation with John Abbott at Devona, while he was pouring tastings, that I learned Bar Bacetto had reopened. I first heard about Bar Bacetto, an Italian restaurant helmed by Chef Mike Easton, when it was named a semifinalist in the Best New Restaurant category of the James Beard Foundation Awards. Located in the true small town of Waitsburg, WA, about a 25-minute drive from Walla Walla, Bar Barcetto was briefly shuttered in June of 2024. As my last update was the closure, it came as a shock to learn from John that the team was back in business (as of February 2025) spinning out dishes. Mid sip, I opened up my phone and searched Open Table. It just so happened that there was seating for two that very same night at the renewed Bar Bacetto, a restaurant that now had a 3-month long waitlist. Sometimes, you get lucky.
Bar Bacetto
The drive from Walla Walla to Waitsburg is a scenic one. You’re treated to views of the Blue Hills in the distance as you pass through at least one one-room schoolhouse town.
Waitsburg itself, at least its main street, has the feel of one of those showdowns at the O.K. Corral type of towns. Pulling up the restaurant, there’s a funky neon sign letting you know you’re in the right spot.
Inside the door, the vibe is easy, albeit a bit quirky. The main dining room has bar seating and a handful of smaller tables along the wall. There’s a waiting room to the left that looks a bit like the last stages of a thrift-store cleanout.
It all works, though – particularly when you factor in the welcomeness of the team. It’s a small operation – you can see directly into the kitchen where Chef Easton and his three-person team are hard at work. The rest of the show is run by the bartender and the do-it-all hostess-maître’d-server – who I *believe* (my fault if this is incorrect) is Erin Easton, chef Mike’s wife. The reservation I snagged was for two bar seats.
The Menu? It’s written on a chalkboard daily, and everything is family-style. Portions are very generous (we were warned), and we decided to go all in, knowing we’d end up with leftovers to take home.
We ordered the fresh-baked Focaccia, Prosciutto di Parma with Burrata, Spanish Sardines and Chickpea Salad, Spinach-Ricotta Gnocchi, and Tagliarini al Tartufo.
As the food was being prepared, I sipped on a ‘Basil-ionare,’ while Mrs. Blackbeard ordered a French 75.
The food – outstanding.
Everything was on point, but I need to take a minute to break down how unexpectedly amazing of a dish the Sardine and Chickpea Salad was. I never imagined that sardines would ever be mobilized with a chickpea vehicle, but this dish was killer.
Presented whole over a tapenade-esque bed of chickpeas, peppers, and parsley, the instructions were to chop everything up and toss it, allowing the oils from the fish to bring everything together.
The saltiness from the sardines created a natural seasoning for the naked chickpeas, and the texture of each bite had a confidence to it but would then give way to a soft, melty finish. It just worked.
Even regal Patrick Stewart agreed.
On the way home, we had trouble getting a car – given the remoteness – but a pleasant woman by the name of Peggy shared the ride she had hailed – (shoutout to Chris Wood of Tesla Winery Tours – hit him up for all your Walla Walla Wine excursion needs!!!) – ensuring us a safe ride back to the Marcus Whitman.
Bar Bacetto – a bit out of the way but worth the detour for sure.
